Pita bread is to Middle Eastern cuisine as pasta is to Italian cuisine--a basic foundation that must be of the very best quality. That's the oh-so wise sentiment that the very personable Firas Jarrar conveyed to me during an informal interview yesterday at Abu's Restaurant on Milwaukee's East Side.
For 32 years, the Nasr family has owned Abu's, serving a variety of tasty Middle Eastern edibles to any and all with an appetite, and that fact has not changed. But on July 20, the management duties were turned over to Jarrar, a close family friend and first-time eatery manager, who is leasing the storied restaurant and is super busy bringing new life to the property and menu.
Born in Saudi Arabia, Jarrar's parents hail from Jerusalem and are currently residing in Jordan, so the cuisine cultivated and enjoyed within the Fertile Crescent region is part and parcel of his life and identity. Giving credit where credit is due, Jarrar noted that it was his mother who instilled him with the passion for cooking--it almost always goes back to Mom, doesn't it? Also, he loves to eat, to which we say, "Us too!"
Over 20 days, Jarrar completely refurbished the property, updating equipment and adding a customer service counter to better compliment the switch from a sit-down to a carry-out/delivery operation. During that same period, he also fired his first chef, assistant manager and prep cook due to, well, let's just say their skills didn't quite match their resumes--welcome to the wonderful wacky world of the restaurant business! For now, Jarrar is head chef and it's a position he seems to relish greatly. (By the way, if you've got assistant managerial experience in a fast paced restaurant environment, stop by Abu's with your resume--no embellishments, please.)
Though an industrial engineer by training, having earned his BA from the University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee (UWM) and putting in time on his master's, the recession has significantly slowed the demand for his professional consulting services. So whaddya do when one avenue starts to narrow so tightly ya can hardly squeeze a Vespa through it? Ya ask yourself, "What other paths of interest do I have?" Which is exactly what Jarrar did. His answer? Cooking!
With so many years spent living, studying, working, and eating in the United States, Jarrar has a solid understanding of how to expand the American palate with healthy Mideast fare and at affordable prices. Nothing on the menu is over $10 and that's all kinds of awesome, ain't it, kids?
Jarrar's vision for Abu's new menu was driven by his desire to offer authentic Middle Eastern food made from scratch and using only fresh ingredients--no Falafel mixes or microwaves allowed. He cooks and tastes everything, from Hummus to Baba Ghannooj, and has created new items like Abu's Veggie Pizza, which I had the opportunity to sample. Fantastic was my verdict.
"I'm not a recipe guy," Jarrar told me plainly. Rather he does what all notable chefs do, and that is to cook and season and cook and taste, repeating as many times as necessary to achieve the perfection sought. Falafel, a breakfast mainstay in the Mideast, is clearly one of his favorite dishes. While we talked, his eyes glazed over with a true joy as he explained just how good it can be when made in the traditional manner, packed with ground vegetables and deep fried to a golden brown. Say, is that your tummy growlin' or mine?
Patrons will notice that the new menu is divided into two sections, Vega-Tarian and Meat-Tarian--haha!--and includes Shawerma (Beef or Chicken), Kefta Kebob, Falafel, Hummus, Baba Ghannooj, Grilled Eggplant, Chicken Vegetable Soup, Lentil Soup, and meat and vegetarian pies. Fans of Abu's Original Shawerma can order that up, too.
Those looking for a unique pizza experience should try one of these specialties:
• Beef Shawerma Pizza--with tomatoes, tahini (sesame seed sauce), onions, parsley, and mozzarella cheese
• Chicken Shawerma Pizza--with tomatoes, fries, garlic sauce, and mozzarella cheese
• Kefta Kebob Pizza--with tomatoes, tahini (sesame seed sauce), onions, and mozzarella cheese
• Abu's Veggie Pizza--kalamata olives, artichoke, spinach, basil, and mozzarella cheese
Or you can make your own 'zza by choosing from a plethora of ingredients, including grilled eggplant and fried cauliflower.
While the restaurant is a little spare in atmosphere at the moment--it's only been a week and a half, people!--Jarrar plans to display the numerous award plaques presented to Abu's over these many decades as well as photos of the founding couple, Alice and Khalil "Abu" Nasr, to be hung in a place of honor.
Abu's is located at 1978 N. Farwell Avenue in Milwaukee. Hours are 11AM-10PM daily for carry-out and delivery. Call 414-277-0485 to find out if they deliver to your area. The new menu will be up on their website soon.
A grand opening will be held when everything's right and plumb, but it's strictly TBA right now, so I'll let y'all know when that intel comes over the wire. It'll be the Mideast food in a Midwest town celebration of the year!
(Thanks, Firas!)